HOW TO CONNECT YOUR RETRO CONSOLE TO A MODERN TV (15 minutes)

17 February 2026 8 min read Mark Baxman

What you’ll need:

Step-by-step:

Step 1: Choose Your Conversion Method Determine which cable/adapter matches your console. Check the comparison table above to find your system. Most common: NES → Retro Fighters HDMI, SNES/Genesis → Pound Cable, N64/GameCube → Carby.

Step 2: Gather Your Cables Locate the AV output port on your console (usually a circular multi-pin connector on the back or side). Get an HDMI cable long enough to reach your TV from where you’ll place the console (typically 6+ feet).

Step 3: Connect the Conversion Cable Plug your chosen conversion cable into the AV port on your console. This is the multi-pin port (usually at an angle). Push firmly until it clicks.

Step 4: Connect to TV Plug the HDMI end into your TV’s HDMI port. Most TVs have 3-4 HDMI ports on the back or side. Note which port number (HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc.) for the next step.

Step 5: Power On Connect your console to power and turn it on. Use your TV remote to select the corresponding HDMI input (e.g., if you plugged into HDMI 2, press Input and select HDMI 2).

Step 6: Adjust TV Settings (Optional) Some TVs have picture settings that can be optimized for retro games. In your TV menu, look for:

  • Aspect Ratio: Set to 4:3 (not widescreen) for original retro appearance
  • Sharpness: Increase slightly if image appears blurry
  • Brightness: Adjust as needed (retro games often look darker than modern content)

Result: Your retro console now displays on your modern TV in full HDMI quality. Games should look sharp and play without lag.

Pro tips:


COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID

Mistake 1: Buying a cheap generic HDMI converter expecting perfect quality

Problem: Not all HDMI converters are created equal. Generic $10 converters often have cheaply made components that introduce lag, pixelation, or color shifting. You end up with poor video quality that actually looks worse than composite on an old CRT.

Solution: Invest in reputable converters designed specifically for retro systems. The $5-10 difference between a budget converter and a quality one is worth it for a better gaming experience.

Fix: Upgrade to either the Retro Fighters cable ($25-35) for NES or the J&TOP converter with excellent reviews ($15-25) for universal compatibility.


Mistake 2: Using the wrong type of cable for your specific console

Problem: Each console has different output capabilities. Buying a “universal” HDMI cable that doesn’t match your console’s output ports means it simply won’t connect. Or worse, you buy a cable for N64 when you own SNES, wasting money.

Solution: Verify your console’s exact model and output type before purchasing. The comparison table above shows the right cable for each system.

Fix: Cross-reference your console model in the table, then order the recommended cable.


Mistake 3: Buying a cable then discovering your TV doesn’t have HDMI

Problem: A small percentage of older HDTVs (2005-2008 era) only had component/composite inputs, not HDMI. You purchase an HDMI converter and realize your setup is incompatible.

Solution: Check your TV’s ports before purchasing anything. Look at the back of your TV—you should see HDMI ports (they look like small rectangular slots). If your TV predates HDMI, you’ll need a different approach.

Fix: If your TV lacks HDMI, buy an older component video cable instead or upgrade to a modern TV with HDMI.


Mistake 4: Plugging everything in at once without testing

Problem: You connect your console, cables, and TV all at once, and nothing appears. Now you don’t know which component is broken—the cable, the converter, or something with your console.

Solution: Test your console on an old TV with original AV cables first to verify it works. Then, with power off, gradually add HDMI conversion components one at a time. Power on and test after each addition.

Fix: If you encounter issues, try a different HDMI cable first—this solves 80% of “no picture” problems.


Mistake 5: Expecting perfect picture quality from a composite converter

Problem: You buy a $20 AV-to-HDMI converter expecting pristine 1080p video. Games look okay, but jagged edges and color artifacts appear—not because the converter is broken, but because it’s upscaling a composite signal, which has limited information.

Solution: Understand the limits of your console’s original output. NES/SNES composite output is inherently lower quality than an RGB or component signal. A great converter can’t fix this—it can only work with what the console outputs.

Fix: If you want the absolute best picture, consider an RGB converter like the Carby ($80-100) or mod your console with an RGB output kit ($50-100).


Mistake 6: Using a single power adapter for multiple consoles on the same circuit

Problem: You power your console, HDMI switch, and converter all from the same power strip outlet. The electrical draw causes brownouts, flickering video, or intermittent connection loss.

Solution: If you’re running multiple devices, use separate power strips or a quality surge protector with adequate amperage.

Fix: Get a heavy-duty surge protector with 6+ outlets and 15+ amps capacity ($15-25).


FAQ: HDMI CABLES FOR RETRO CONSOLES

Q: Can I use the same HDMI cable for all my consoles?

A: Yes! Once you’ve connected your console to your TV via HDMI, any standard HDMI cable works. You only need different converters/cables if your consoles have different AV outputs. A quality HDMI cable ($8-12) works with any converter.


Q: Will an HDMI converter introduce lag into my games?

A: Most modern converters have zero detectable lag. Budget converters may introduce 1-2 frames of lag, which you might notice in fast-paced games like bullet-hell shooters. For turn-based or slower-paced games, lag is imperceptible. Carby ($80-100) is known for zero-lag conversion.


Q: My TV shows “No Signal” when I plug in my converter. What’s wrong?

A: Try these troubleshooting steps: (1) Make sure your HDMI cable is firmly plugged in at both ends, (2) Check that your console is powered on and displaying video through the converter port, (3) Use your TV remote to manually select the HDMI input where you plugged the cable, (4) Restart your console. If still no signal, try a different HDMI cable (defective cables are common).


Q: Can I use these cables on modern consoles like Nintendo Switch?

A: These converters are designed for original retro consoles (NES, SNES, Genesis, N64, etc.). Modern consoles like Switch, PS4, and Xbox One have built-in HDMI outputs and don’t need converters. Just use a standard HDMI cable.


Q: Do these cables work with clone consoles like the NES Classic or SNES Mini?

A: No. The NES Classic and SNES Mini have different architecture than original hardware and typically include HDMI out of the box. They don’t need converters. If you own original NES/SNES hardware, use the cables recommended in our comparison table.


Q: Which converter should I buy if I own multiple different consoles?

A: If you own a mix of NES, SNES, Genesis, and N64, the J&TOP universal AV-to-HDMI converter ($15-25) works with all of them (as long as they have composite AV output). It’s the most economical solution for collectors.


Q: Will my cable work if my console is modded or has RGB output?

A: Standard HDMI conversion cables work with original unmodded consoles. If you’ve modded your console with RGB output mods, you’ll need an RGB-to-HDMI converter like the Extron ($200-300) or similar professional device.


Q: Is 1080p output actually better for retro games?

A: Retro games were designed for 240p (NES) or 480i (N64) resolution. Upscaling to 1080p can make them look jagged or blurry if your TV’s scaler is poor. Some collectors prefer 720p upscaling or using scanline filters to simulate CRT appearance. Check your TV’s scaling settings for best results.


Q: Do I need an expensive surge protector for my retro console?

A: Original consoles consume very little power. A basic power strip ($5-10) is fine. However, a surge protector ($15-25) adds protection against electrical spikes that could damage your vintage hardware.


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Word count: 5,487 words Affiliate links: 58 Date: February 2026