Best AV to HDMI Converters for Retro Consoles: 2026 Buying Guide

We have not bench-tested these converters ourselves. Features below come from the makers’ own listings and spec sheets (checked October 2026); listings change, so confirm inputs on the Amazon page before you buy.

Comparison Table: AV to HDMI Converters for Retro Consoles

Budget Tier: Basic Composite-to-HDMI Boxes

Generic RCA to HDMI Converters

If you just want to see whether an old console still works on a modern TV, the basic generic RCA to HDMI adapters are the entry point. Most are small USB-powered boxes with a yellow composite video input and red/white audio inputs, and a switch for 720p or 1080p output. Who it’s for: first-time buyers, casual players, or anyone checking a console before spending more.

What to expect:

• Plug-and-play: no drivers or settings
• Composite input only on most models, so no S-Video or component
• 720p or 1080p output, usually chosen with a small switch
• Usually powered from USB, so you need a USB socket or adapter
• Works with consoles that have composite output, which covers most systems from the NES to the PS2

The Reality Check: These boxes are designed for camcorders and DVD players, which send 480i or 576i video. Many retro consoles send 240p, which cheap scalers often treat as interlaced video, so the picture can look soft or shimmer. Few makers publish a lag figure. Owners also report occasional dropouts with some consoles. For casual play that is usually fine, but for a permanent setup you will likely want to step up.

Where to Buy: View RCA to HDMI adapters on Amazon

Branded Converters and Upscalers

Tendak AV to HDMI Converter

Tendak sells several small Tendak converters. Most take composite video with stereo audio and output 720p or 1080p over HDMI, powered from USB. Some listings add an S-Video input, so check the photos for a round 4-pin socket if your console supports S-Video.

Good to know:

• Check the input list on the listing: composite-only and composite + S-Video versions both exist
• USB power means an extra cable behind the TV; use a mains USB adapter if the TV’s USB port can’t power it reliably
• Like other cheap converters, it is not designed around 240p game signals

Check it out: See Tendak on Amazon

FOINNEX AV to HDMI Converter

The FOINNEX converter is a similar small composite-to-HDMI box and is often a few dollars cheaper. Treat it as an alternative to Tendak rather than an upgrade: compare the listed inputs, output resolutions and power method, and buy whichever matches your console’s outputs.

Buy FOINNEX on Amazon

Portta AV to HDMI Scaler

The Portta scaler (sold as a composite/S-Video to HDMI up-scaler) is a step up if any of your consoles can output S-Video, because S-Video keeps brightness and colour separate and gives a cleaner picture than composite.

What Portta lists for its V1.3 up-scaler:

• Composite (CVBS) and S-Video video inputs, plus R/L audio
• HDMI output at 480i/p, 576i/p, 720p or 1080i/p, at 50 or 60 Hz
• Automatic NTSC/PAL detection
• 5 V DC power and a 3.5 mm audio output

This is ideal for: owners of S-Video capable consoles (for example an NTSC SNES or N64 with an S-Video cable) and anyone with both NTSC and PAL systems. For arcade or multi-system builds, see our home retro arcade setup guide.

View Portta Scaler on Amazon

Premium Tier: Dedicated Scalers ($100+)

RetroTINK-2X Pro ($139.99)

Cheap AV-to-HDMI boxes are built for camcorders and DVD players, not 240p games. If lag or sharpness matters to you, the next step is a purpose-built retro video processor. The RetroTINK-2X Pro is the long-running entry point. Its maker sells it direct at $139.99 and now lists it as a legacy product, pointing buyers to the newer RetroTINK-6X CE.

What the manufacturer lists:

• Component, S-Video and composite inputs (composite shares the green jack)
• Line doubling of the original signal, for example 240p/480i to 480p, over a digital video output
• Marketed as adding zero latency
• Scanline mode and selectable comb filtering
• Automatic NTSC/PAL detection; powered by micro-USB (5 V / 1 A), with an optional N64/SNES S-Video cable for NTSC consoles

Things to know first: RetroTINK warns that Sega Genesis and PS1 composite signals are off-spec and may not work properly. It only accepts standard-definition (not 480p) inputs. Its simple “bob” deinterlacing can flicker with 480i games. It also outputs 480p rather than 1080p, so you are relying on your TV to scale the rest of the way.

Who it’s for: Players who notice lag in platformers, fighting games or speedruns, and anyone with S-Video or component cables who wants more than a budget box can deliver. Casual players with one or two consoles will usually be fine with a mid-range converter.

ViewHD AV to HDMI Converter

ViewHD makes several analog-to-HDMI upscalers. The ViewHD VHD-UVC, for example, takes composite, S-Video or HDMI input and outputs 720p or 1080p, with automatic PAL/NTSC detection.

What ViewHD lists:

• Composite and S-Video inputs (the VHD-UVC also passes through an HDMI source)
• Selectable 720p or 1080p output
• Automatic 50 Hz/60 Hz (PAL/NTSC) detection
• Powered by a 5 V mains adapter rather than USB

Best for: collections that mix NTSC and PAL consoles, or a setup where you would rather not rely on a USB socket for power. It is still a general-purpose video scaler rather than a retro-specific processor.

Buy ViewHD on Amazon

Capture Card Solutions: Record and Convert Simultaneously

If you want to record or stream, check the inputs carefully. Most current capture cards only accept HDMI, so an analog console still needs a converter or scaler in front of them.

AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme (GC550)

The AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme GC550 is an older USB 3.0 capture box that, unlike most, has a component input as well as HDMI. That means a console with component output (such as a PS2 with a component cable) can go straight in, while composite or S-Video consoles still need a converter first.

What AVerMedia lists:

• HDMI and component video inputs, with HDMI/component pass-through outputs
• Capture up to 1080p60 over USB 3.0 (not USB 2.0)
• Records MP4 (H.264 with AAC audio)
• Extra RCA and 3.5 mm audio inputs
• Does not capture HDCP-protected signals

Ideal for: recording PS2-era consoles over component. Availability varies because it is an older model.

See AVerMedia on Amazon

Elgato Game Capture HD60 S+

The Elgato HD60 S+ is built for modern consoles. It has an HDMI input only, so for a retro console you would put a converter or scaler (such as the RetroTINK) in front of it.

Why people choose it:

• 1080p60 capture with 4K60 HDR pass-through to your TV
• Works with Elgato’s software and common tools such as OBS
• Pairs well with a dedicated scaler that outputs HDMI

Check Elgato on Amazon

Complete Setup Guide: How to Connect Your Retro Console with an AV-to-HDMI Converter

Before you buy, understand the exact setup process. This prevents compatibility issues and ensures you’re getting the right converter for your specific console mix.

What You’ll Need

• Your chosen AV-to-HDMI converter (selected from above)
• RCA cables (usually 3 connectors: red, white, yellow) or S-Video/component cables for your specific console
• HDMI cable rated for 1.4 or higher (any cable works; expensive “premium” HDMI cables provide no benefit)
• HDMI cable (6–10 feet, depends on your setup)
• USB micro-B power adapter (if converter requires external power—check specs)
• Optional: cable management ties or sleeves to keep your setup clean

Step-by-Step Connection Process

1. Identify Your Console’s Video Output Type: Is it composite (3 RCA plugs: red/white/yellow), S-Video (circular 4-pin connector), component (three RCA: red/green/blue for video), or RGB (15-pin D-sub or SCART)? Different consoles vary—an NTSC Nintendo 64 or SNES can output S-Video with the right cable, while a stock Sega Genesis/Mega Drive outputs composite and RGB but not S-Video. If unsure, check your console’s manual or manufacturer specs online. This determines which cables you’ll need before plugging in your converter.
2. Connect Console Outputs to Converter Inputs: Using the appropriate cable type, connect your console’s video output (usually found on the back or side) directly to the converter’s corresponding input port. Audio cables (red and white RCA) should connect to the converter’s audio inputs. If your converter supports S-Video, use S-Video cables instead of composite for noticeably better image quality—less color bleeding and cleaner detail.
3. Plug HDMI Cable from Converter to TV: Take your HDMI cable and connect it from the converter’s HDMI output to any available HDMI input on your TV or monitor. Your TV will auto-detect the input; if it doesn’t, manually select the HDMI input using your remote. Modern TVs support multiple HDMI versions; any recent TV (2015+) works fine.
4. Supply Power to Converter (if applicable): If your converter requires USB power, plug the included power adapter into a nearby outlet or use a powered USB hub. Plug the USB micro-B cable into the converter. Wait 5–10 seconds for the converter to initialize—most units have an LED indicator that turns solid green when ready.
5. Test Video Output: Turn on your console and verify video appears on your TV. You should see the boot screen or game start immediately. If the TV displays nothing, try these troubleshooting steps: (a) check that HDMI is actually selected as the TV’s input, (b) unplug and replug the HDMI cable, (c) restart the converter by unplugging its power for 10 seconds, (d) verify the console outputs video when connected to the original CRT or TV (some consoles require specific settings enabled).
6. Optimize Audio (if needed): Most converters output audio through the HDMI cable itself. However, if you’re using a high-end vintage audio system, your TV’s built-in speakers won’t cut it. In this case, use the converter’s audio outputs (if available) and route them through your audio amplifier or receiver instead. For detailed guidance on integrating retro gaming audio with quality vintage gear, see our vintage HiFi setup guide.
7. Adjust Image Settings on Your TV (Optional): Modern TVs apply motion smoothing and upscaling by default—often making retro games look blurry. In your TV settings, disable features like “TruMotion,” “SmoothMotion,” “MotionFlow,” or anything labeled “interpolation.” Set the picture mode to “Game” or “Cinema” rather than “Dynamic” for more authentic color. Disable all upscaling unless your converter already handles it (scaling converters and processors do; basic converters don’t).
8. Test with Multiple Games/Consoles (if applicable): If you own several retro systems, plug each one into your converter sequentially and verify they all work. Some converters handle Sega Genesis perfectly but struggle with NES output; knowing this before permanently mounting cables saves frustration. Spend 15 minutes testing your full collection if possible.
9. Secure Cables with Ties or Clips: Use cable ties or adhesive clips to organize your setup. This prevents accidental disconnection and makes unplugging/replugging systems (for storage or transport) much easier. Leave 3–4 inches of slack at connection points—too-tight cables can fail over time from stress.
10. Document Your Setup: Take a photo of your final connections. When troubleshooting future problems or adding new consoles, you’ll thank yourself for having a reference. Note which converter port accepts which console’s output (e.g., “Composite 1 = SNES,” “S-Video = Genesis”).

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Choosing an AV-to-HDMI Converter

These errors waste money and create frustration. Learning from others’ mistakes saves you time and cash.

• Mistake 1: Buying the cheapest converter without checking input type compatibility. You purchase a $12 converter only to realize it accepts only composite input, but your Sega Genesis has S-Video output—wasting time and money. The fix: Before buying any converter, verify what output types your console uses (consult the manual or manufacturer specs), then match the converter’s input specifications exactly. A converter supporting “composite, S-Video, and component” works with nearly all systems; ultra-cheap models often support only composite.
• Mistake 2: Not accounting for power requirements. You buy a USB-powered converter, connect it to your TV’s USB port (expecting power), but the TV’s USB provides insufficient current. The converter cuts out intermittently. The fix: Check if the converter includes a dedicated power adapter. If it relies on USB power, use a powered USB hub or wall adapter rated for at least 1A output. Don’t assume TV USB ports deliver enough power—many supply only 0.5A.
• Mistake 3: Expecting converters to fix poor-quality console outputs. Your Nintendo 64 has degraded video outputs after 25 years of use. You expect a $30 converter to restore vibrant colors. In reality, even a $100 converter can’t repair damaged console circuitry. The fix: If your console produces weak or garbled video through the converter, the problem is almost always the console, not the converter. Consider recapping the console’s video output circuitry or testing with another console to verify the converter works normally.
• Mistake 4: Choosing a converter without considering cable length and TV placement. You buy a converter that works fine, but the nearest TV is 15 feet away. HDMI cables over 20 feet develop signal degradation. The fix: Measure the distance from your console to your display before purchasing. For runs over 15 feet, either: (a) use an active HDMI repeater/booster, (b) relocate equipment, or (c) choose a converter that accepts wireless streaming (though few actually do this reliably). For most home setups (consoles 3–10 feet from display), standard HDMI cables work perfectly.
• Mistake 5: Not testing with all your consoles before committing to permanent installation. You buy a Tendak converter, install it nicely, then discover it outputs slightly washed-out colors on NES games specifically. Now you’re stuck either swapping converters or accepting suboptimal image quality. The fix: Before permanently mounting cables, test the converter with every console in your collection. Spend 30 minutes running through 3–5 different games per system. If color accuracy differs significantly between systems, either: (a) find a converter that handles your specific collection better, or (b) consider multiple converters (one for Nintendo systems, one for Sega, etc.).
• Mistake 6: Ignoring HDMI cable quality for “premium” cables you don’t need. You read marketing hype about $50 “audiophile-grade” HDMI cables and buy them to match your $80 converter. In reality, HDMI is digital; a $5 cable carries the exact same information as a $50 cable. You’ve wasted $45 on psychosomatic improvements. The fix: Buy the cheapest HDMI 1.4 or newer cable you can find. All HDMI cables carry digital data identically. The only exception: if you’re running cables over 20 feet, use active/powered HDMI extenders instead of longer passive cables.
• Mistake 7: Choosing professional converters without understanding your actual use case. You’re a casual player with one NES and one Genesis. You buy a $140 dedicated scaler because a YouTube channel recommended it, but you may never notice the lag difference and could have spent far less. The fix: Match your converter tier to your needs: Budget tier for casual testing, Mid-range for permanent setups with 2–3 systems, Premium for multi-console arcade builds or serious competitive play (fighting games, speedruns). Be honest about how much you’ll notice the difference.

Converter Performance: What the Specs Actually Mean

Marketing jargon obscures what matters. Here’s what to look for:

Latency (Input Lag): The time between pressing a button and seeing the result on screen. Analog cables themselves add no meaningful delay; lag comes from processing in the converter and in your TV. Cheap converters rarely publish a lag figure, so the safest way to keep lag down is to use your TV’s Game mode and, if timing matters to you, a retro-specific processor. Dedicated line doublers such as the RetroTINK-2X Pro are designed to add no meaningful latency, leaving the total mainly down to your TV’s processing.

Upscaling vs. Native Resolution: Most games on consoles up to the N64 and PS1 generation output 240p, a low-resolution signal that modern TVs often handle badly. Budget converters scale it to 720p or 1080p with general-purpose processing, which usually softens pixel art. Retro-specific processors such as the RetroTINK range or the OSSC treat 240p properly, and some offer integer scaling (whole-number multiples, for example 240 × 4 = 960 lines on a 1080p screen) so every pixel stays the same size.

NTSC vs. PAL Compatibility: North American/Japanese systems output NTSC-format video (60Hz, 480i). European systems output PAL (50Hz, 576i). Composite cables carry the format information, but some converters don’t auto-detect correctly. Good converters detect the incoming format and output the correct HDMI resolution automatically. Cheaper converters might require manual switching or produce incorrect colors on PAL systems. This matters if you own both NTSC and PAL consoles.

Related Guides

For additional help with your retro setup, check out our comprehensive guides:

• How to Convert Vintage VGA Monitor to HDMI Connection—if you’re using an older computer display instead of a TV.
• Complete Vintage HiFi Setup Guide—integrate your AV converter with quality audio for the full experience.
• How to Set Up a Home Retro Arcade on Budget—building a multi-console arcade cabinet? Start here.
• Room Acoustics for Vinyl Listening—if you’re combining retro gaming with vinyl playback, optimize your space.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need an AV-to-HDMI converter, or can I just buy a new console?

New retro consoles exist (Nintendo Switch Online, Mini versions of classic systems), but original hardware offers authenticity and often superior game libraries. Converters cost $20–85 and preserve your vintage console investment. If you have working original consoles, a converter is far cheaper and more respectful to retro gaming culture than replacing hardware. Plus, original consoles often handle framerate and gameplay more accurately than emulation-based Mini versions.

Will a converter damage my retro console?

No. Converters are passive input devices—they only receive video/audio signals, never send power or control signals back to the console (with rare exceptions). Plugging a console into a converter is no riskier than plugging it into an original CRT TV. Your console is perfectly safe.

What’s the difference between composite, S-Video, and component cables?

Composite sends the whole picture down one wire (the yellow plug); the red and white plugs carry left and right audio. It is the lowest quality but almost universal. S-Video keeps brightness and colour on separate wires, giving a noticeably clearer picture; NTSC SNES and N64 consoles, and the PS1 and PS2, can output it with the right cable. Component uses three video plugs (green, blue and red) and is the best analog option for consoles that support it, such as the PS2, original Xbox and Wii. When available, use component, then S-Video, then composite.

Why does my converter sometimes lose signal or turn the screen black?

Most common cause: incompatible HDMI handshake between the converter and your TV. Try these fixes in order: (1) Unplug the converter’s power for 10 seconds, then replug it. (2) Unplug and replug the HDMI cable. (3) Restart your TV. (4) Try a different HDMI port on your TV. (5) Try a different HDMI cable if you have one. If signal dropping persists, the converter may be defective or your console’s video output is degraded. Test with another console if possible to isolate the problem.

Can I use an AV-to-HDMI converter with RGB or SCART cables?

Standard AV-to-HDMI converters don’t accept RGB/SCART inputs. RGB-to-component transcoders exist, but they are active boxes rather than simple cable adapters. The simpler route is a scaler with an RGB/SCART input, such as the OSSC or the higher RetroTINK models. RGB gives the sharpest picture of the analog options, and many consoles can output it with a SCART lead, including the Mega Drive/Genesis, SNES, PS1 and PS2 (PAL N64s need a modification).

Is wireless AV-to-HDMI conversion reliable for retro gaming?

It is not a good fit for gaming. Wireless HDMI kits compress and transmit the video, which adds delay you may notice in platformers and fighting games. They are fine for films, but use a wired connection for playing games.

What TV settings should I change after installing my converter?

Disable motion smoothing (TruMotion, SmoothMotion, MotionFlow) in your TV’s picture settings—this makes retro games look blurry. Switch to “Game” picture mode if available (reduces input lag and disables unnecessary processing). Disable upscaling unless your converter already handles it. Disable HDR for retro gaming unless your converter outputs HDR (most don’t). These changes take 2 minutes and dramatically improve image quality.

Can I use the same converter for multiple consoles?

Absolutely, and it’s the most cost-effective approach. Buy one converter that accepts all the input types your consoles use (composite + S-Video + component if you have diverse systems), then swap console connections as needed. This works perfectly. However, some users prefer dedicated converters per console if they’re permanently mounted in an arcade cabinet setup—each console has its own converter, eliminating the need to rewire. For casual home use, one quality converter serving multiple consoles is the smart choice.

Should I buy a converter with audio outputs, or is HDMI audio sufficient?

If you’re using your TV’s built-in speakers, HDMI audio is fine. If you own vintage audio equipment—a receiver, amplifier, or powered speakers—use the converter’s dedicated audio outputs (usually 3.5mm or RCA) routed directly to your audio system, bypassing the TV. This prevents audio processing by the TV and lets you control volume through your quality amplifier. For setups detailed in our vintage HiFi guide, dedicated audio outputs are strongly recommended.

Are there converters that accept HDMI input instead of analog AV?

Yes, but they serve the opposite purpose—HDMI-to-composite converters, which output older video formats from modern consoles or computers. For retro consoles (which output only composite/S-Video/component), you need AV-to-HDMI converters, not the reverse. If you’re trying to connect a modern Nintendo Switch or PS5 to a vintage CRT TV, you’d buy the opposite direction converter. Always verify the direction: your console’s output type determines which converter you need.

The Bottom Line: Which Converter Should You Actually Buy?

Here’s the decision framework:

You have $12–20 and just want to test something: Buy a generic RCA-to-HDMI adapter. You’ll get it running, and if you hate the setup, you’ve only lost $15. Zero regrets for experimentation.

You own 2–3 consoles and want a permanent setup: Buy the Tendak AV-to-HDMI converter ($25–35). Check the listing for an S-Video input if your consoles support it.

Some of your consoles can output S-Video, or you mix NTSC and PAL: Buy the Portta AV-to-HDMI Scaler, which takes S-Video and composite, detects NTSC and PAL automatically and outputs up to 1080p.

You’re a serious collector or play lag-sensitive games: Look at a dedicated scaler such as the RetroTINK-2X Pro ($139.99) rather than a generic box, especially if your consoles can output S-Video or component.

You want to record and stream gameplay: Check the capture card’s inputs first. The AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme GC550 accepts component as well as HDMI; most other cards, including Elgato’s, need an HDMI signal, so put a converter or scaler in front of them.

Whatever you choose, buy from a retailer with a good returns policy, such as Amazon where you can return it within 30 days if it doesn’t work with your setup. This eliminates risk and lets you test confidently. The retro gaming community is active and helpful—once you have your converter working, share your setup in forums. Others will appreciate the real-world experience data, and you’ll likely discover optimization tips you hadn’t considered.